The greatest achievements of the human mind are generally received with distrust.

Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional.

Surfing, writing and life have a lot in common: lots of hard paddling for a few brief moments of transcendent bliss. Those moments, however, will stay with you forever and get you through any dark times.

Just keep swimming.

You're so hard on yourself. Take a moment. Sit back. Marvel at your life: at the grief that softened you, at the heartache that wisened you, at the suffering that strengthened you. Despite everything, you still grow. Be proud of this.

Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.