Not until we are lost do we begin to understand ourselves.

Surfing, writing and life have a lot in common: lots of hard paddling for a few brief moments of transcendent bliss. Those moments, however, will stay with you forever and get you through any dark times.

Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.

We are all a little broken. But last time I checked broken crayons still color the same.

You're so hard on yourself. Take a moment. Sit back. Marvel at your life: at the grief that softened you, at the heartache that wisened you, at the suffering that strengthened you. Despite everything, you still grow. Be proud of this.

Just keep swimming.

The greatest achievements of the human mind are generally received with distrust.

Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional.